luxuriant foliage, is considered with the only island is the rock now probability to occupy the site of the called Dascalion, situated exactly

garden of Laertes (Od., xxiv. 204). opposite the entrance to Port Polis. One way of visiting this district is to It is therefore perfectly adapted to pass by the village of Anoge, alluded the purposes of the suitors if the to above; but perhaps the best way capital was at Polis; indeed there is is to go in a boat from Bathy to the no other harbour, nor any other islittle port of Frikés at the N.E. end land, with which the poet's narraof the island, whence it is but a short tive can be made to accord. Colonel walk to the "School of Homer." Leake further remarks that the traThence the traveller reaches in half-ditional name Polis is one strong an-hour the large village of Stavros argument that the town, of which (Σravpós), i. e. Čross,-as common a the remains are still visible here, name in Greek as in English topo- was that which Scylax,* and still graphy. If he have taken the pre- more expressly Ptolemy,† mention as caution to send on horses to this having borne the same name as the place, he may return to the capital island. We may readily believe that easily in 3 hrs. by an excellent bridle-in every age, hóλis, or the city, path, which is the only communica- was among the Ithacans the most tion by land between the N. and S. common designation of their chief of the island. After leaving Bathy, town. it sweeps round the great harbour, crosses the isthmus obliquely, and then hangs like a cornice on the side of Mount Neritos, high over the channel of Cephalonia, commanding glorious views of the opposite island. Some traces of the ancient road may be discerned in this rocky path.

Below the village of Stavros are some ancient remains near the little port of Polis on the western coast of the island. Though the fortress and royal residence of the Ithacans may be identified with what is now called the Castle of Ulysses, and though its excellent harbour makes it probable that there was also a town on the site of the modern Bathy, still it seems evident that the Homeric capital was at Polis. For the poet represents the suitors as lying in wait for Telemachus on his return from the Peloponnesus at Asteris, "a small island in the channel between Ithaca and Samos,”* where

If the Homeric capital of Ithaca was at Polis, it will follow that Mount Neium, under which it stood (Od., iii. 81), was the mountain of Exoge at the northern extremity of the island, and that one of its summits was the hill of Hermes, from which Eumæus saw the ship of Telemachus entering the harbour (Od., xvi. 471). It becomes probable also that the harbour Reithrum, which was under Neium, but apart from the city (Od., i. 185), may be identified with either of the neighbouring bays of Afales or Frikés. Crocyleia and Egilips, enumerated by Homer among the subjects of Ulysses (1., ii. 633), were perhaps towns of Ithaca. The rugged rocks around the modern village of Anoge, scarcely accessible except to goats, lead to the conjecture that it may occupy the site of Egilips. Strabo, however, is inclined to place Crocyleia and Egilips in Leucadia; while K. O. Müller is inclined to identify them respectively doubtless is a contraction of Διδασκαλεῖον, and derives its name from having been at some time or other the residence of a monk who acted as a διδάσκαλος. The name of Asteris would seem to imply that the Homeric island was a mere starlike rock.

νῆσος Ἰθάκη καὶ πόλις καὶ λιμήν. Scylax in Acarnania.

† Ιθάκη, ἐν ᾗ πόλις ομώνυμος. Ptolem. iii, 14. Cf. Leake's Travels in Northern Green chap. xxii.

with Arcudi and Atoko, two small been puzzled as to the site of Duliislets between Ithaca aud Leucadia. chium. But Strabo (x. 2) insists that Of all the small islands lying it was one of the Echinades, and, as his along the western coast of Acarnania opinion is in perfect conformity with the largest is Calamos, anciently Homer (Il., ii. 625), there seems no called Carnus, containing more than good reason for doubting that Dulia hundred families, who grow a good chium was the head of an insular state, deal of corn, and cultivate vines and which, like Hydra and other Greek olives. There is a flourishing vil-islands, in modern times, may have atlage near the S.E. extremity of the tained by maritime commerce, not unisland, which boasts elsewhere some mixed, perhaps, with piracy, a high Hellenic and mediæval remains. The degree of populousness and opulence, sail through the narrow strait which far out of proportion with its natural separates Calamos from the mainland resources and dimensions. It furnished presents very striking scenery. Mytika forty ships to the Trojan expedition is the nearest Acarnanian village. (I., ii. 630). "Petala," says Col. Leake, During the Greek war of Independ-"being the largest of the Echinades. ence, Calamos was made a place of re- and possessing the advantage of two fuge for many of the families of the well-sheltered harbours, seems to have insurgents, who were protected by a the best claim to be considered the guard of English soldiers. This as ancient Dulichium."* It is a mere well as Kastus, Atoko, and a few other rock, but so is Hydra, whose navy small islets hard by, were inhabited swept the Turks from the Ægean of old by the Taphians, or Telebo, during the War of Independence. as they are also called, who are cele- Moreover, as Petalà is separated by brated by Homer as a maritime people, a strait only a hundred yards across addicted to piracy.* The whole group from the fertile alluvial plains at the of the Echinades, most of which are mouth of the Achelous, its natural mere barren rocks, derive their name deficiencies may have there been supfrom the resemblance of their pointed, plied, and the epithets of grassy and and, as it were, prickly outline, to the abounding in wheat, which Homer apback of the Echinus, or sea hedge-plies to Dulichium (Od., xvi. 396), may hog, common on these shores. By be referred to that part of its territhe Venetians they were known as the tory. From Petalà an easy and inislands of Kurzolári, a name belonging teresting excursion may be made to properly to the high peninsular hill at the extensive and singularly picturthe mouth of the Achelous. A week esque ruins of Enia, or the city of may be spent delightfully in cruising Eniada (under which latter name it among the islets which lie between always occurs in history), situated on Leucadia and Ithaca and the opposite an eminence on the right or Acarcoast of Acarnania. There are numer-nanian bank of the Achelous. ous excellent harbours for yachts, the surrounding scenery is as grand in all port of Petala, the beautiful bay of its natural features as in its clasVliko in Leucadia, of Bathy in Mega-sical associations;-this city, as the nési, of Dragomestre, and many others. most important fortress in Western Both ancient and modern critics have Greece, having often been the object of many a hard struggle. (See Section II., Part I.)

Od., xv. 426, &c., xvi. 426, &c. These seas

continued to be infamous for their piracies

down to the time of Sir Thomas Maitland and Ali Pasha of Joannina, who finally put an end to them.

The

The barren rocks at the mouth of the Achelous derive an interest from

The rocks at the mouth of the Achelous, Travels in Northern Greece, chap. xxii. forming part of the Echinades, are called from We are inclined to adopt a suggestion which their jagged and sharp outline, 'Occia. The Leake makes elsewhere, viz. that Dulichium is epithet Ooai applied to them by Homer has to be found in the long narrow island near been interpreted as synonymous with 'Occia; Petala, which is now called Macri (Maxpη). or it may be derived from Thoas, the ancient The etymology of these two names (μaxpos name of the Achelous, as we learn from Strabo. | and dovλixos) would appear to be similar.

the fact that Lord Byron, during his perilous voyage from Cephalonia to Mesolonghi in January, 1824, was three times obliged to take refuge among them, twice by the sudden storms so common in these seas, and once to escape from a Turkish cruiser. The hardships and exposure which he then endured for several days in a small Ionian boat were probably in part the origin of the illness which cut him off prematurely in the following April. His enthusiasm for the noble cause to which he devoted his life and fortune, though deep, was not flighty, like that of many Philhellenes; his zeal, gallantry, and generosity are not more admirable than his calm good sense, moderation, humanity, and the remarkable clearness of vision with which he at once saw through the difficulties of his own position, and the character of the people with whom he had to deal.* Had he lived longer among them, his excellent counsels and personal weight would have exercised an important influence on their future destiny. This was not to be; still Lord Byron has had the reward which he would have himself desired. He sank into the grave amid the tears and blessings of a grateful nation; and his name, like that of Lord Guilford, will never be forgotten in Greece.†

and by the rapid progress on all sides of the Ottoman arms, the Venetians, who trembled for their possessions in the Adriatic,-Philip II. of Spain, whose Italian dominions were in imminent danger, and Pope Pius V., the soul of the whole enterprise,-entered into a league against the Infidels. The chief command of the Christian armament was intrusted to Don John of Austria, an illegitimate son of the Emperor Charles V.- and then younger even than Alexander when he conquered the East, or than Napoleon when, in the campaign of 1796, he hurled the Austrians from Italy. The Turkish fleet of 230 galleys was encountered almost within sight of the waters of Actium, where the empire of the world had been lost and won 1600 years before. The force was nearly equal on both sides; and the battle was long, fierce, and bloody. Then were aroused the fiercest passions which can agitate the heart of man,-religious and political hatred, the love of glory, the hope of conquest, the dread of slavery ;—then were employed the chief instruments of war of ancient and modern invention, arrows, javelins, fire-balls, grapplingirons, cannon, muskets, swords, and spears. The foemen fought hand to hand in the galleys, as on a field of battle. Ali, the Turkish admiral, It was off the Echinades also, and and Don John, each surrounded by not within the gulf of Corinth, as a band of champions, maintained a might be imagined from the name of close contest for three hours. At last Lepanto (so the Venetians called Nau- | the Ottoman leader fell, his galley pactus) having been generally applied was taken, and the banner of the Cross to it, that was fought, on October 6, was displayed from its mainmast. 1571, the most important naval en- The cry of "Victory resounded gagement of modern times. Thoroughly through the Christian fleet, and the alarmed by the recent fall of Cyprus Infidels gave way on every side. The loss of the allies was very great, but near 200 of the Ottoman galleys were either captured or destroyed; above 25,000 Turks fell in the conflict, and 15,000 Christian slaves found chained to the oars, were set at liberty. that great day the Turkish fleet re

• See Moore's Life and Works of Byron,' vol. vi. p. 3. "Of all those who came to help the Greeks," says Sir Charles Napier (a person himself most qualified to judge, as well from local knowledge as from the acute, straightforward cast of his own mind), "I never knew one, except Lord Byron and General Gordon, that

seemed to have justly estimated their character." + See Moore's Life and Works of Byron,' vol. vi.. for Lord Byron's Letters and Conversations on Greek Affairs. Compare also Finlay's or Gordon's History of the Greek Revolution.' ↑ Daru, 'Histoire de Venise,' xxvii. 16. Marmora, Istoria di Corfu,' lib. vi,

On

* See Russell's Modern Europe,' part i. letter 70; and the authorities there quoted. Cervantes. the author of Don Quixote,' was sev· wounded at Lepanto, but survived to Spain's chivalry away."

ceived, like the Turkish army before Vienna in 1863, a blow from which it has never recovered.

6. ZANTE (ZACYNTHUS).

him and his retinue; when the Za-
cynthians, with a hospitality which
still distinguishes these islanders, re-
fused to deliver him up, and enabled
him to make good his escape to the
court of Persia. Not long before the
Peloponnesian war, the island was re-
duced by the Athenian general Tol-
mides, from which period we find
Zacynthus, like most other states of
Ionian race, generally allied with, or
rather, dependent upon, Athens. It
was attacked by the Peloponnesians,
but unsuccessfully (Thucyd., ii. 66;
vii. 57). At a much later period it
fell into the hands of Philip III.,
King of Macedonia (Polyb., v. 4);
and during the second Punic War it
was occupied by the Romans.
this occasion the chief town, bearing
the same name with the island, was
captured, with the exception of the
citadel, called Psophis, probably after
an Arcadian city, of which the re-
puted founder, Zacynthus, was a na-
tive.

On

The history of Zacynthus is soon told, Pliny affirms that the island was in the earliest times called Hyrie,perhaps a name of Phoenician origin, like Scheria, the Homeric appellation of Corcyra. But Zacynthus is the term constantly used by Homer; it is said to be derived from the founder of the chief city, an Arcadian chieftain. A very ancient tradition ascribed to this same Zacynthus the foundation of Saguntum in Spain, one of the very few commercial stations which the Phonicians allowed their hated rivals to establish on the coasts of the Iberian Peninsula. "Much has been said (to quote the Bishop of Lincoln) "concerning the origin of the name of Zacynthus; and, as is usually the It is likely that this citadel case, heroes have been created at will occupied the site of the modern Casfrom whom that appellation has been tle. Diodorus (xv. 362) mentions derived. But names of places are another fort called Arcadia in the generally assigned in consequence of island. Zacynthus was, however, aftersome peculiarity existing in the sites wards restored to Philip, and he placed themselves. It may be shown from there as governor Hierocles of Agrinumerous examples-such as Mount gentum, who sold the island to the Cynthus in Delos, and Ara-cynthus, Achæans, who were anxious, perhaps, the mountain of Etolia,-that Cyn- to recover their old colony. On its thus in the early Greek language was being claimed by the Romans, the a general term for a hill. Looking Achæans, after some demur, gave it therefore at these two hills before us up, B.C. 191, and Zacynthus hencefor(Mount Skopos and the Castlehill), ward seems to have followed the forand the town placed between them, tunes of the Roman Empire (Livy, we prefer to go no further than the xxxvi. 31, 32). There is an improbimmediate neighbourhood of Zacyn-able story, founded on an inscription thus for what it so well supplies, namely, the reason of its own designation, which we may compare with that of Za-longos, a woody mountain of Epirus between Nicopolis and Arta."

Thucydides (ii. 66) acquaints us that at a later period Zacynthus received a colony of Achæans from the Peloponnesus. Herodotus (vi. 70) relates that Demaratus, the exiled king of Sparta, took refuge here from the persecution of his enemies, who crossing over from the mainland, seized

said to have been discovered on an ancient sepulchre, that this island was the burial-place of Cicero.

The beauty and fertility of Zacynthus, and the picturesque situation of its capital on the margin of its semicircular bay, have been celebrated in all ages, from that of Theocritus (Idyl., iv. 32) to that of the modern Italian proverb which pronounces the island to be "the Flower of the Levant:"

"Zante, Zante,
Fior di Levante."